JBL- ARC SUB10 and JBL- DS-10 Powered Subwoofer – TROUBLESHOOTING – SCHEMATIC

Troubleshooting – Exploded view – Circuit Diagram - JBL- ARC SUB10 and JBL- DS-10 Powered Subwoofer

Amplifier Power (RMS)  100 watts
Driver 10" . . . . . . . . . . . .. High-Polymer Laminate
Inputs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Line Level and Speaker Level
Outputs . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  Speaker Level (only active if Speaker Level Inputs are used)
High-Pass Frequency . . . High-Pass filter at 180Hz (only active if Speaker Level Inputs are used)
Frequency Response . . . 50Hz - 150Hz (determined by crossover setting)

In the event you receive a ARC SUB10 / DS-10 Subwoofer with the complaints “Dead, or No Output, or Motor boating (Oscillation)”, perform the steps listed below first before any further troubleshooting takes place:

1 Unplug all cables; lay the sub-woofer on a padded surface.

2 Remove all Philips screws around the outer perimeter of the amplifier face-plate.

3 Remove amplifier assembly; you should be able to remove the amplifier far enough out of the cabinet to service it without removing the woofer wires.

4 Locate the Power Amp Module; it is the large gray component with a metal case. On the Solder side of the circuit board are the 28 Solder connections to the Module.

5 Regardless of whether you can visibly see breaks in any of the connections or not, carefully re-Solder all 28 pin connections, adding 60/40 rosin core Solder. Take care not “bridge” any connections on the board with Solder.

6 Inspect the Solder joints to the main filter capacitors C1 and C2 on the main PCB and re-Solder if needed.

7 Replace the amplifier assembly back into the cabinet; replace the screws.

8 Test the unit by applying a signal from a music source, adjust the volume to a moderate level and confirm the original problem has been corrected.

EXPLODED VIEW

SCHEMATIC & AMP MODULE CONNECTION DETAILS

TROUBLESHOOTING

THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURES MUST BE FOLLOWED WHEN INSTALLING NEW S53AMI/S64AMI AMP MODULES
FAILURE TO FOLLOW ONE OR MORE OF THESE STEPS MAY RESULT IN THE INSTANT DESTRUCTION OF THE MODULE WHEN POWERED UP.

* Align white indent marker on Amp Module with indent marker on main PCB; alternately observe position of label on the top of the module; incorrectly replacing the Module 180 in the PCB slot will result in its destruction.

* All AC powered test instruments (meters, oscilloscopes, etc.) must have a floating ground, i.e. be connected to an isolation transformer.
* Align and position the Amp Module before soldering.
* Attach the amp Module with the mounting screws or powering up.
Use only rosin-core or non-acid core solder; thoroughly de-flux the surfaces after soldering.

> Check fuse F1. If blown visually check transformer for discoloration, and large capacitors (C1, C2) for bulges or venting. Check for shorts with an Ohmmeter, (see schematic).

> With ohmmeter, verify voice coil of woofer is 3.9 ohms, and winding of transformer for continuity.

> Examine board and wiring for obvious damage, broken or poorly soldered connections, or discoloration.

> Repair or replace items identified above.

> For live power testing, attach a 4 ohm 100 watt resistor to the output wires.

> If the LED is not on, check for fuse continuity and then for cold solder joints on CMC1 and bridge diode.

> With a signal present at the input, the output to the power amp is at pin-8 of U1. If the signal is not present at pin 8, there is a problem with preamp section. Most likely, a cold solder joint will be the problem. Track back the signal path to locate problem.

> If signal present at pin 8, but still no sound, check for cold solder joints on all power resistors, R4a and R4b and the the power amp module. If C24 is blown, C6 is not soldered or is defective. Check the signal at R2. On the down signal side, the voltage signal should be very small. If signal is similar on both sides of R2, the amp module is likely defective.

> If you hear a mechanical clicking noise from the amp module, this indicates that the short circuit protection has been engaged. Check that Q3, Q4 and Q5 are soldered correctly. Also check that Q3 is not shorted to power amp case.

If you have to replace the power module, be very, very patient with the solder removal from this single sided PCB. COMPLETELY REMOVE SOLDER BEFORE TRYING TO REMOVE THE MODULE.  Crossover pot Gnd wire from PCB pad to POT barrel. (Only physical contact required between pot body and face-plate).